You should never be intimidated by kitchen cabinet design! It is not as difficult as it may seem at first. With a little guidance from an experienced helper, almost anyone can have a good experience with this process.
Designing a simple kitchen layout using pre-manufactured cabinets that are available at your local box stores is really less complex than you might think. All you really need is a blank piece of paper, a pencil and a ruler! Here we will lay out the basics of how to go about that process and determine exactly what pieces you need to purchase or order to put together your own kitchen remodel.
Almost anyone who is somewhat handy with tools and can operate a calculator to add and subtract can design and build their own kitchen with a minimal amount of help. Here are the things you need to know to complete the process.
Tip #1 - Kitchen Cabinet Design Begins With Shopping First!
Shop around to see what your options are. If you have several different store options to choose from, take your time to find the style, color and quality of cabinets that you want in your kitchen. The "look and feel" that will make you happy should be your first concern here. Remember, cabinets are a big investment and you will likely have to live with them for the next decade or more. Even if you have to spend a few more dollars than on another option, getting what you want will probably be worth it in the long run.
A few words about quality here;
No matter how much you spend on pre-manufactured cabinets, you will probably not get the same quality of cabinets as you would by going to a custom cabinet shop. Mass produced cabinets tend to cut corners on things like the thickness of the material that the cabinets, shelves and drawers are built out of and on the quality of hardware like hinges and drawer slides that are used. This doesn't mean that you shouldn't go this route, just be aware of the limitations of this choice.
You are probably not going to be able to get soft close drawer slides or roll out waste basket holders with this type of cabinet.
Lastly, as a general rule, do not be afraid of particle board or "press board" as some people like to call it. It is the most common material used in cabinet construction, even in very high end custom cabinets. If you install it properly and keep it dry, it will last the life of your kitchen or at least until you are tired of the look and just need a change again.
The most important thing is to keep it dry! Which means that your plumbing needs to be installed and maintained correctly and to keep water from around your sink from leaking down underneath it.
Tip #2 - Make A List!
When you have decided on the style and color that you like, the next step in any kitchen cabinet design is to simply take a piece of paper and write down the sizes of cabinets that you will have as options to work with. Also list the different styles and sizes of sink cabinets, corner cabinets, pantry cabinets, and spacers that are available.
Your list should look something like this:
Base cabinets; 12",15",18", 21", 24", 27", 30", 36"
Drawer base cabinets; 18", 21", 24"
Wall cabinets; 12', 15", 18", 21", 24", 30", 36"
Corner base cabinets; 36"lazy-susan, 36" blind corner
Corner wall cabinets; 24" angled corner, 24" blind corner
Other wall cabinets; 18" pantry, 30X12 wall, 30X9 wall, 36X18 wall, 36X9 wall,
2"end panel, 3X30 spacer, 6X30 spacer, 3X91 1/2 spacer
Trim pieces; toe kick, 1/4X3/4 scribe, inside corner, outside corner, quarter round, crown
Etc.
This list will give you the raw materials and dimensions that you need to know to make them fit your particular layout.
Tip #3 - Draw the Layout of Your Room
Start with a blank sheet of paper. Graph paper works best, but if you can read a ruler or tape measure, plain paper will work just as well.
What shape is your kitchen? Most kitchens follow one of several common patterns. The simplest is a straight line along one wall. Next would be an "L" shaped kitchen where the cabinets run along one wall to a corner and then change directions to run along the adjoining wall. An extension of that would be the "U" shaped kitchen where they turn at another corner and run in a "U" shape. For the moment, forget about any islands and walls with runs of cabinets that are separated from your main wall. You will add them later.
Draw a line along the long side of your paper that is one inch in from the edge. This will be the main or longest wall of your kitchen.
If you have an "L" shaped kitchen, draw in the second wall on the correct side of the paper.
If you have a "U" shaped kitchen, add the third wall. If you do this, now you need to make sure that the distance between your two corners is dimensionally correct for your drawing to work properly.
Let's talk about scale here for a minute. If you want this process to work correctly, you need to make this drawing to scale. That means that it will be an exact replica of your kitchen in a smaller size. I recommend that you use a scale where every 1/2" on your paper equals one foot in real life. This makes it easy to divide up your kitchen in 3" increments which is what most manufactured cabinet are available in. 3" is one fourth of one foot. So it is 1/8" in your drawing. In our example, every 1/8" will equal 3" in real life. Most graph paper is laid out in 1/4" squares so every half of a square will be your 3" increment.
Now take the measurement in inches from the corner of one wall to the end of where you want your cabinets to be. If you have a "U" shaped kitchen your first measurement will be from corner to corner. If one end of a wall of cabinets is going to end where a bar with an overhang takes off perpendicular to your wall, you need to know both where your cabinets will end and where the overhang of the bar will end. They are different!
On your paper, if you have a wall that is 10' 3" long, that will translate into 123" which will translate into 5-1/8" on your paper.
P.S. make sure you are using the measurements of your actual walls at the back of your countertops not the front edges of your countertops! I often have people bring me that
measurement and it is completely useless for several reasons. Measure your walls!
Tip #4 - Add In Unmovable Dimensions
In your kitchen there will be certain features that are basically unmovable without a major overhaul. You will want to place these on your drawing in the correct locations next.
The first thing I always place is my kitchen sink location. If you are going to place your sink under an outside window, you have very little leeway on it's exact location. If you move it more than an inch or so either direction off of dead center, it will be noticeable and look awkward. On your drawing you need three dimensions in relation to your window. You need to know the dimension from your main corner to the center of the window. Then you need to know the measurement from that same corner to the far right side of the window trim and to the far left side of the window trim. If there is no trim around your window, then these measurements need to be to the point where the wall turns and wraps into the window. This measurement determines how close your wall cabinets can be to the window.
The next measurement you need is the location of your range or stove. A typical range is 30" wide. However the most important measurement is the location of your electrical outlet and gas line from the corner depending on which type of range you have. The range itself can be moved a few inches one way or the other to make the layout work. But moving the gas line or the outlet is much more involved. The other measurement that can affect the placement of your range is critical if you have a range hood vent that you intend to use. The ductwork for that is usually solid, and again, is difficult to move. So you need the measurement from the corner to the center of that duct. This dimension is much more solid and will mean that your range needs to be very close to its original position to work correctly.
Next mark the location of your refrigerator. Fridges range in size from about 30" to 36" wide in most cases. There are larger and smaller ones. You need to know the final dimensions of the actual fridge that you will be using. If you now have a smaller one that you intend to continue using, you need to ask yourself if at any time in the future, you may decide to buy a larger one? If so, then you need to allow space for it now. You will also need to know the height of your fridge if you intend to put a smaller wall cabinet above it for extra storage. It is good to allow 4-6 inches above the fridge for air circulation so that it functions properly. Also it is a good idea to allow an inch or so on both sides of your fridge to leave room for air movement and ease of installation.
Will you have a dishwasher? The location of your dishwasher is much more flexible but does need to be allowed for. Almost all dishwashers are 24" wide. Usually they are located right next to your sink cabinet but not always. Is there an electrical outlet and a water line already located that you intend to use for this purpose? Again you need the measurement to these from the corner of the wall. Your dishwasher can be moved several inches either direction to make your layout work, as long as you don't cover up the power or water lines.
A trash compactor is much less common than the other appliances, but if you intend to have one, you need to know the measurement from the corner to the power outlet that is dedicated to it. Compactors range in width from 12-15". So again, you need to know the exact dimensions of the unit you will be using.
Another piece that is usually very limited to its location is a tall pantry cabinet if you choose to have one. Often they get placed at the end of a row of cabinets in a corner or as the last cabinet on a wall. Most pre-manufactured pantries are 18" wide and 84" tall.
If you intend to have a bar that extends out from a run of cabinets into the room and perpendicular to a wall, then you need to know if there are any limiting features in the room that will determine its exact location, or is there some leeway? Your bar cabinet will extend 24" beyond the last cabinet that it is attached to plus the thickness of whatever back you choose to attach to it. Also remember that the countertop that you put on it will extend another 8-10" beyond that. Make sure that there are no outlets, floor vents, window or door trim. or other features that will interfere with that.
Lastly mark the dimensions of any other outlets, floor vents or other features in your room that could interfere with the placement of your cabinets. All of these are potentially movable if necessary, but you need to be aware of their final location before you start.
Tip #5 - Repeat This Process for Any Other Walls
Does your kitchen have any other walls, islands or runs of cabinets that you need to plan for? if so, repeat the above process for those sets of cabinets. Mark your plan with all of the unmovable dimensions first so you know what you have to work with.
Tip #6 - Start Adding Cabinets
Now it's time to start adding the cabinets to your drawing! Your base cabinets will extend out 24" from the wall. So now is a good time to add a line to your drawing that represents the front of the cabinets. Draw that line without any divisions for the individual cabinets.
Like I said before, I always begin by placing the sink cabinet in its approximate location either centered on the window or on its plumbing if there is no window. This is not necessarily its final location but will be an important starting point.
Next, will you have a corner cabinet, either a lazy-susan or a blind corner? If so, which one? now is the time to draw it in place.
Remember this important piece of information;
On your base cabinets, both lazy-susans and blind corners are designed to take up a 36" space, BUT they are not ACTUALLY built 36" long! Both of them are normally designed to have some dead space back in the corner behind them. Don't make the mistake of shoving them all the way back into the corner because you measured the cabinet at the store and it was only 24" wide! Allow a full 24" X 36" space for a blind corner or a 36" X 36" space for a lazy-susan. The corner cabinet, if you have one, is the one cabinet that you don't have any leeway to move. The one exception to that rule is that a blind corner can be pulled an inch or so farther out of the corner if needed to make up a little space without a spacer. This amount is completely dependent on the design of the face frame of the cabinet. Is the frame wide enough to move out without uncovering the particle board of the box?
Now tentatively draw in your range, dishwasher, refrigerator, trash compactor or anything else like that which is going to take up space but not require a cabinet.
When you have those in place, basically it is as simple as filling in the leftover space with the available sizes of cabinets from the list you made in step #2.
For instance, let's say that between your sink cabinet and your lazy-susan corner cabinet, you now have 31" left. You really have at least 3 options. Since they don't make a 31" cabinet, you could use a 30" base plus a 3" spacer that has been ripped down to 1". Another option would be to move your sink base slightly closer to the corner by 1" and not needing the spacer. (You can usually get by with having your sink offset by an inch or so from your window without it being too noticeable. But be careful.) Another option would be to choose two smaller cabinets that equal 30" total and use them either with or without the spacer. The advantage to this is that if you want a drawer stack versus a regular drawer and door combo cabinet, you can add that in here. So maybe you would replace the 30" standard base with an 18" drawer base and a 12" standard base.
Work your way around your kitchen filling in the gaps as we just described. Think about the use of each particular section and the sizes available So that you choose the best cabinet for the space that you have available.
If you are going to have a dishwasher, trash compactor or other non-cabinet space that sits at the end of a run of cabinets and will need to have the countertop extend over it, use a 1 1/2" end panel (commonly called a dishwasher end panel) to finish off the end of the cabinets and to support the countertop.
A word here on fudging some of your unmovable dimensions. As we described with the sink base in the example above, sometimes you may need to move one of your "unmovable" spaces an inch or two in one direction. Just remember which dimensions are actually really unmovable. It is very difficult to move things like a vent fan duct, a gas line, an outlet or a heater vent if you don't absolutely have to. However, as an example, if you don't have a vent duct to line up with, your cook stove can usually be moved several inches either direction as long as it doesn't interfere with a gas line or an electrical outlet.
Also sometimes you may need to move the last cabinet in a run such as a pantry cabinet. By using a spacer next to the wall, you can gain up to 3" to fill in the space that you have available. Sometimes you have to be creative with your spacers.
When you are all done laying out a run of cabinets, take the time to add up all of the dimensions of the cabinets, appliances and spacers on that wall to make sure that they match the dimension of the available space! Very often this will help you catch a mistake before you get home with the wrong size cabinet for a space!
Now is a good time to redraw the your set of plans with all of the cabinets in their final position.. A clean drawing is much easier to work from.
Tip #7 - A Word About Bars!
No this is not a prohibition message!
When you plan to have a bar running out at a 90 degree angle from another run of cabinets, you have at least 3 options for the corner cabinet. First you can choose to add a lazy-susan cabinet to turn the corner. Second you could use a blind corner cabinet. Third you can install a 24" base cabinet with the doors opening under the bar overhang on the other side. Each one of these options has its own pros and cons. Sometimes one or the other won't even work in a given situation. Mostly it is a matter of personal preference.
Another thought about bars; You need to take into consideration how you are going to finish the back side of the cabinets which is now exposed to view. There are many different options for this and most of them are not even standard cabinet parts. Just be sure that you allow for it in your spacing and how you actually install your cabinets.
Tip #8 - Islands
If you are going to include an island in your kitchen layout, be sure to include a drawing of it at this point. Islands can be any size that you choose or even any shape that you can make out of the available standard cabinets. Normally there are not specific "island" cabinets. You can use a single cabinet or fasten two or three together to arrive at the configuration that you are looking for.
Remember that installing your island will be different too. Because it won't be backed up against a wall, you will have to fasten it to the floor instead. Also be aware that most building codes will require you to have an electrical outlet somewhere on the bar. If you choose to install a sink or other plumbing there, you will also be faced with some unique plumbing situations. All of these have readily available solutions. Just be informed that they are different from standard plumbing installations.
Be aware that countertops for your island will probably be different from your other countertops. This is especially true if you are planning to use pre-formed laminate tops. If so you will probably need a specific bar top that is extra wide for your bar overhang and does not have a built in backsplash.
Remember again, like a bar, you will need to deal with the exposed back side of the cabinets.
Tip #9 - Time For Your Wall Cabinets
Now its time to repeat steps 3-6 for your wall cabinets. Sometimes it is easy enough to draw them on the same drawing that you did the base cabinets, but it is also really easy to get confused that way. Since you are only doing this once, take the time to draw out a duplicate floor plan for your wall cabinets. Add in all of the important features mentioned before. Instead of drawing the front line of your cabinets at two feet out from the wall, remember that wall cabinets are only 12" deep. Draw your line accordingly.
With your wall cabinets, since you usually don't have a cabinet over the kitchen sink, you will probably begin with the corner cabinet, IF you have a corner. In your corner you again have two options, an angled corner or a blind corner. Both will take up 24" of wall space. An angled corner simply makes the door of the cabinet more reachable and adds a little bit more storage space. You have to decide which one will work better in your situation.
The next rule of thumb is to try to make your wall cabinet widths line up with your base cabinet widths as much as possible. This will vastly improve the esthetics of your finished kitchen. Because of the different depths of wall cabinets versus base cabinets, this will not hold true right in the corners, but your next cabinets should be able to be adjusted in size to accommodate this.
Shorter height cabinets are available for installation over ranges, microwaves, refrigerators and other areas where you may need them. They usually come in 2-3 different heights and either 30" or 36" widths.
If you have a window such as right above your sink or other such opening that will have wall cabinets on both sides of it, try to make sure that you calculate so that both cabinets end up spaced the same distance back from the window or casing that trims it out. If not you will create another potential esthetic problem.
Lastly, generally speaking, your wall cabinets are spaced approximately 15"-20" above your base cabinets. This distance is somewhat flexible and depends on personal preference. As a general rule, never install them so high that it makes it difficult for an average person to reach the top shelves.
If you choose to have a pantry cabinet next to your wall cabinets, this generally determines the installed height of all of your other wall cabinets. They may need to line up with the top of it in order to look correct.
Tip #10 - Trim Pieces and End Panels
Don't forget to add in your trim pieces! They make a tremendous difference in the final appearance of your cabinets.
End panels are usually available to match the side dimensions of base, wall and pantry cabinets if the natural wall of the cabinet itself is unfinished. These end panels are usually 1/4 inch thick decorative plywood panels cut to the appropriate size. Decide where you will need them on the exposed ends of your cabinets and make a note for your list
We have already talked about spacers in several places. Usually you will find a 3"X 30" and a 6"X 30" spacer. These are used on both your base cabinets and your wall cabinets. The other spacer that is normally available is a 3" X 91 1/2" piece that is designed to be used on the side of a pantry or other longer space. All of these may be ripped to a custom width and cut to a custom length where necessary.
The most commonly used piece of trim is the 4" X 8' long toe kick cover. This is designed to cover all of the unsightly joints on the very bottom edge of the base cabinets next to the floor. It is usually held in place with some small brad nails through the face of it.
Anywhere that the vertical line between the back edge of a cabinet and the wall is visible, you may want to consider 1/4" X 3/4" X 8' edge trim. It is designed to be cut to length and tacked to the side of the cabinet to hide what is normally an unsightly gap between the cabinet and the unevenness of the wall itself.
Crown molding is the other main trim piece that is available. Adding crown molding to the top edge of your wall cabinets serves two purposes. Obviously it is quite decorative and adds a touch of class to your kitchen. It also adds visual height to the wall cabinets which can be a positive effect if needed.
Lastly, you often have the option of a quarter-round trim and an outside corner trim. As is apparent, these would be used for places where you need to cover an inside or outside corner that doesn't look right without the trim. As an example, the joint where two cabinets come together at a 90 degree angle may not look as pretty as it should. So a piece of trim might dress it up.
Grand Finale! Your Very Own Kitchen Cabinet Design!
Well, there you have it! Your kitchen cabinet design is now complete! You have actually designed your own set of kitchen cabinets! See it wasn't really that hard was it?
The only thing left is to use your drawings to make a list of the different cabinets and trim accessories that you actually need to purchase. While we're on the subject of shopping lists don't forget things like handles and knobs, door bumpers, installation screws, etc.
Also at this point comes the big question. Are you going to install them yourself or are you going to hire a qualified handyman or contractor to do it for you? It's a really good idea to do a little research to see if the person you are trying to hire has done this sort of thing before. If possible, try to arrange to go see some of their work for yourself. Installing cabinets requires someone who is attentive to small details to get them to look and function at their best. It is well within the scope of an amateur do-it-yourselfer. just take your time, watch a few YouTube videos and pay attention to details.
Hopefully this has been very helpful along your path to your brand new kitchen! You can do this! Thousands have done it before you! Now you have the process for how to figure it all out for yourself! Go for it!